Metal is an indispensable structural element in jewelry. It serves to set gemstones, but it can take a leading role as well, expressing various kinds of elegance. At the turn of the 20th century, Cartier was the first Maison to generalize the use of platinum in jewelry. Originally, silver and gold were used to set stones. However, as they are soft metals, greater amounts of material is required for their settings, making jewelry look heavy. Silver also tarnishes with the passage of time. Platinum, by comparison, is a stronger yet flexible metal that allows for finer and lighter pieces. It is ideal for the delicate and distinct lines of flowers, branches, bows, or lace-like openwork patterns, all of which characterize the Garland style, that brought Cartier into high regard internationally at the beginning of the 20th century. The bright, pure whiteness of platinum also make diamonds all the more dazzling. The Maison’s pursuit of beauty has led to the introduction of unique metal combinations, such as three golds (pink, yellow and white) or even steel, as well as to the exploration of highly specialized ancient gold techniques.

Evident throughout Cartier’s creations is the incomparable technical ability of its in-house artisans. One example of the crafts mastered at Cartier is glyptic, the extremely demanding art of engraving hard stones like jade, agate, jasper, quartz, or even fossilized wood. Glyptic art awakens stones that have slumbered for unimaginable eons to reshape them into new forms. The unique characteristics of each uncovered stone are used as the creative starting point. Today, this artisanal tradition is in danger of extinction and Cartier is making every effort to ensure that this knowledge is passed on to the next generation. Gemstone engraving and stringing—an art in which bead-shaped gemstones are strung on metal or fabric wire—are other stone techniques that contribute to the richness of a creation.

Throughout its history, Cartier has pursued many diverse forms of expression found in the decorative arts. Hardstone marquetry is a well-established traditional European inlay technique used to decorate personal items and furniture. Cartier adopted this technique, inlaying thin fragments of lapis lazuli and turquoise in mosaic patterns on vanity cases and watch dials, evoking the imagery of Roman houses. In recent years, Cartier has developed this technique even further with floral and straw marquetry. Other decorative techniques dear to Cartier include enamel work, in particular guilloché enamel, which has decorated clocks and watches from the 1900s onwards.

The inclusion of rich color combinations into the Cartier palette dates back to the beginning of the 20th century. Inspired by the Ballets Russes, unique vivid combinations were developped, such as blue and green - named the “peacock pattern” - , but also contrasting red and black or black and white, typical of Modern style jewelry which preceded the Art Deco style, and later blue and purple. From the 1920s onwards, the Maison has been creating jewelry inspired by Indian tradition of engraving gemstones in the shape of leaves, fruit and flowers. Combining rubies, sapphires, and emeralds evoking "foliage" and berries, this aesthetic was dubbed "Tutti Frutti" ("all fruits") in the 1970s and is now emblematic of Cartier style. In recent years, new gemstone combinations have been adopted, enriching the palette even further. The Maison has been exploring new color combinations that are more nuanced, expanding on similarities rather than contrasts.