Humanity’s curiosity forces it to travel, and travel provides humanity with insights.
The last chapter introduces "Universal Curiosity" as the origin of Cartier design, inspired by cultures, flora and fauna from all over the world. Born out of Louis Cartier's vivid interest in the world, his art collection and library, this curiosity became a signature trait at Cartier, and has since freely traversed the past and the present, East and West, leading to the creation of unique and innovative pieces.
In this chapter, Cartier jewelry inspired by various cultures from around the world is housed in a 16 meter-long plaster-finished oval case representing the Earth. Traditional Japanese plaster finish, long popular as a wall finish, can produce a wide range of textures depending on the material it is used with. Mixed with diatomite and lime, and skilfully applied by a craftsman, it creates a beautiful finish over the curved lines of this display case. The way the oval case floats within the darkness suggests the passage of a comet in space, meaning that the visitor can enjoy the sensation of being part of a vast universe even while examining extremely small jewels.
At the end of each chapter is a display of Korean and Japanese antiques with Cartier jewels, highlights of this exhibition. They are specially selected by Hiroshi Sugimoto among the treasures of his personal collection and, exclusive to this venue, from a Korean private collector. It is interesting to discover how these artworks resonate with each other - the unique aesthetics of Korean and Japanese antiques that have remained for a long historical time, and the refined art of Cartier jewelry, rooted in European culture.
Bracelet
Cartier, 2016
White gold, colored sapphires, onyx, black lacquer, diamonds
Cartier Collection
"Wisteria, Kasuga Grand Shrine" by Hiroshi Sugimoto, 2022, Private Collection
Under the blooming wisteria, a dainty knot-shaped bracelet and a pair or earrings seem to be, themselves, in full bloom. The piece chosen by Sugimoto for this chapter is a wooden sculpture of vine created by Yoshihiro Suda. It is paired with a quaint 'White Porcelain Polygonal Bottle' from Joseon period from a Korean private collector. The installation in Chapter 3 evokes nature in its awakening, blossoming in the joy of spring.
White Porcelain Polygonal Bottle
Joseon period, 19th century
Private Collection
A map tracing the origins of Cartier’s inspirations would cover the entire world. East Asia, India, the Middle East, Africa and many other parts of the world have appeared in Cartier’s records since the early years of the Maison. Cartier designers have analyzed their architecture, decorative arts or mythology to adapt patterns and color palettes into jewelry designs. East Asia in particular has long inspired the Maison's creations. That intellectual curiosity is no less powerful today, as evidenced in the recent design exploration of ancient Central American culture.
Platinum, yellow gold, onyx, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, black enamel, silk cord
Cartier Collection
White gold, two rectangular-shaped morganites totaling 55.18 carats, opals, rubellites, pink sapphires, diamonds
The pendant is removable and can be worn on an additional chain.
Private Collection of Mr. and Mrs. David Centner
Africa has always been rich in design inspiration: the myths and iconic statues of Ancient Egypt, the masks of the Dogon people in Mali, or the beautiful patterns on wild animals' fur... The immense expanse of the African continent and the power of its natural landscape is echoed in Cartier jewelry today.
Yellow gold, fourteen oval star rubies totalling approximately 82.13 carats, rubies, black enamel, white enamel
Cartier Collection
White gold, two orangey pink spinels totaling 7.58 carats, two triangular-shaped diamonds totaling 8.39 carats, spinels, diamonds
Private collection of Mr. and Mrs. David Centner
Nothing is more mysterious than the animals and plants of the natural world. Cartier has long interpreted nature either realistically or abstractly. Although flowers have been loved by many jewelers, Cartier reinvented the approach to flora – exemplified by its fondness for orchids. Cartier’s colorful jeweled menagerie forms a treasure box of imagination – such as predatory panthers, snakes clinging around the neck, wild graphic tigers… Whatever the design or animal specimen, Cartier expresses the strong character of its creatures, as exemplified by reptiles and big cats.
White gold, amethysts, aquamarines, pale blue enamel, mauve enamel
Cartier Collection
White gold, onyx, diamonds
Cartier Collection
Cartier’s colorful jeweled menagerie forms a treasure box of imagination – such as predatory panthers, snakes clinging around the neck, wild graphic tigers… Cartier’s jewelry designs sometimes incorporate realistic depictions of these miraculous forms and other times interpret them more abstractly, but the result always conveys the character of the animal in question, be it scaly reptile or sleek big cat.
Platinum, diamonds
Cartier Collection
The clasp on this completely open-backed necklace is placed at the point where the tail entwines. Although rigid when in place, the body of the snake is sufficiently flexible to be opened and slipped around the neck.
Platinum, emeralds, white diamonds, yellow diamonds
Private Collection